August 10: On the trail of Dr. Livingstone ... I GUESS
"The angels have to stop their flight to see a show like this," said David Livingstone a sunny day in 1855 when surfing weeks after the Zambezi River was found filled with amazing waterfalls to indigenous called it Mosi-OA- Tunya, meaning "the smoke that thunders". The explorer who opened more routes in Africa and attended the colonial atrocities being committed on the continent would dignify Queen Victoria by naming one of the most impressive waterfalls that can be seen in the world along Iguazu, Angel Falls or Niagara Falls. It was not his only discovery (I mean the West) but the most sounded, which gave great fame in the then British Empire. Africa David Livingstone lived for and died for Africa, remaining even disappeared for several years until David Stanley, sent by New York Herald, she found him very sick and alone on the shores of Lake Tanganyika and gave her one of the most famous phrases in history when after a difficult search expedition I had at last face to face: "Doctor Livingstone, I presume."
This is a tribute that has certainly been one of the greatest travelers of all time. And I bring up because we were treading the earth not only the floor but also because we were witness with our eyes Victoria Falls 104 years after he first saw them. If neither the angels in the sky will not be lost, eight of us wanted to be less. Off we went.
Victoria Falls can be visited from both Zimbabwe and Zambia. Some even, who have enough time and money to be met two visas, make them from both sides to complete a 360 degrees. We, we had half a day, chose the zimbauense side, which recommends a greater number of guides and other travelers because it has a better view of them from there. It makes some sense because the waters of the Zambezi River Zambia fall, and thus one has to face the being in Zimbabwe.
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LEAVE OF BOTSWANA IN CAR and entered ZIMBABWE ON FOOT
In Kasane you can hire all kinds of excursions and activities to do both in Vic Falls (Zimbabwe) and Livingstone (Zambia), but at a somewhat higher cost. We wanted to do it ourselves not only in terms of potential savings but because we are not too friends that "lead us" to sites more than the bare minimum. So we began minutes before sunrise we prepared to leave the car to the Botswana-Zimbabwe border, which was just a few kilometers from the campsite.
The cars just use them to move the Botswana border control and leave them parked, we did not want to use them in Zimbabwe, which would have to pay a higher cost of input (car registration) and be exposed to discomfort in a section 70 kilometers where police tries to make profits off of bribes to tourists. There have been many cases of corrupt police stopping vehicles to invent a false rate or a role that no one has happened and, of course, does not exist. So we were not play us for the work of "a bite", let alone be in the country only one morning. Not worth the risk.
We leave the cars well parked in Botswana checkpoint and after signing our departure we walked to the border of Zimbabwe, one of the countries with the greatest upheaval in Africa and has another one of those democracies disguised dictatorship. Under the hand of Robert Mugabe, in power since 1980 and accused of electoral fraud and genocide among other things, it can survive as a nation that has seen poverty rates increase dramatically. You could say that is a member of the Third World thanks, among other things, to the work of this man who boasts of spending millions on their private parties while its citizens are literally starving. Not long ago he came back to the public voice after exhaustively deny the cholera epidemic that was destroying the lives of thousands of people in your country and not allow NGOs to work freely. Therefore, that fence with one multicolored banner (green, yellow, red and black) Zimbabwe Flag, marked a radical change with the countries of Southern Africa who are trying to emerge rapidly. Behind that door things were very different.
A photo of Mugabe precisely decorated that house that were issuing visas. There was a price other than the input depending on the country to which he belonged. For Spaniards the cost was 30 dollars while Americans or Canadians this was much higher. I think the Russians even double. The official who attended asked us about our intentions in Zimbabwe and saw that, like most who used this border, we would make a return journey to see the Victoria Falls, as they have the luck that the best views are from his side. Then we put a sticker with the visa, hit each of passports with a postmark with the input data, and wished us luck on our short step to this heir of what the English called Southern Rhodesia in colonial times country .
We went through a metal door and behind a green sign welcoming us to Zimbabwe. We were in a difficult country to understand that survives coup faith of its people, who do not collapse before increasing adversity. Every day these people get up with a new presidential measure that cancels more freedom (not long ago the transfer of land by inheritance or the right to appeal a judgment in a Court) or that what yesterday was worth ten, now worth three hundred. That green sign with white lettering is located to the left of a straight road that plunges beyond human misery to one of the few things that have remained intact to the designs of Mugabe and British colonialists, the splendor of a Falls supernatural dimensions.
THIS CAR IS A WRECK
The waterfalls are 70 km from where we had entered and surprisingly, despite being the biggest tourist attraction in the country, it does not have a single public transportation to get there. The path Kazungula (Zim border) to Victoria Falls (named after the small town built in the area of the falls) is normally done with contracted agencies or tour operators from Botswana to bring their own vehicles. But for independent travelers is only the option of using one of the fake taxis waiting around to get the visa. At that hour we were the only people who were there so they quickly "drivers" (quotation marks) appear to negotiate a career return to Victoria Falls. At first we were asked astronomical amounts (up to $ 200) claiming they were the only ones who could take us, but when we appear not to have too much hurry were reducing their claims to reach $ 10 US per person. We remember two cars for the eight and payment at the end of the ride back, asking them at three in the afternoon we left back at the starting point.
We split four to one car and four on the other. The first were the lucky ones because they boarded a 
good-looking vehicle. But Bernon, Rebecca, Alberto and I do not have that fortune because we touched the dilapidated car I've seen in my life. As fresh from the scrapping sat in the seat of a white faded Nissan seemed the year in which Jesus drove the merchants from the temple. We could not believe the disastrous state of the vehicle that had to do 140 kilometers roundtrip. We thought at first kilometer could fall apart, as they had cast endless pieces inside. The front window was broken, the speedometer did not work, the plastic seemed rotten, doors opened and closed with wires, the front passenger seat where I had to go had several holes that neither of the ozone layer. And the engine sound ... it seemed that makes a tractor. And because we do not look before because I am sure that the timing belt was a battery belt and a shoe box.
good-looking vehicle. But Bernon, Rebecca, Alberto and I do not have that fortune because we touched the dilapidated car I've seen in my life. As fresh from the scrapping sat in the seat of a white faded Nissan seemed the year in which Jesus drove the merchants from the temple. We could not believe the disastrous state of the vehicle that had to do 140 kilometers roundtrip. We thought at first kilometer could fall apart, as they had cast endless pieces inside. The front window was broken, the speedometer did not work, the plastic seemed rotten, doors opened and closed with wires, the front passenger seat where I had to go had several holes that neither of the ozone layer. And the engine sound ... it seemed that makes a tractor. And because we do not look before because I am sure that the timing belt was a battery belt and a shoe box.
Within two seconds after we lost sight of our friends. And a rule of thumb we should not go 
more than 40 or 50 km / h. So clearly it did not need the odometer, not discourage occupants that this good man has been in his life (which could be counted by millions given the age of the vehicle). But go, it was not to complain, for a distance of 70 kilometers were not going to order a limo or a Ferrari. To take us to the door of the Victoria Falls National Park we were more than enough. But even something as simple going to be easy because when missing for covering a third of the way the car stopped suddenly because ... he had spent gasoline. "No, not again ... we have become to be drawn! !! "All we said to ourselves without dare not even look at us. But instead of anger we take it directly to laugh, like a setback over what looked like a reality show in which a writer with very bad grape constantly put us to the test.
more than 40 or 50 km / h. So clearly it did not need the odometer, not discourage occupants that this good man has been in his life (which could be counted by millions given the age of the vehicle). But go, it was not to complain, for a distance of 70 kilometers were not going to order a limo or a Ferrari. To take us to the door of the Victoria Falls National Park we were more than enough. But even something as simple going to be easy because when missing for covering a third of the way the car stopped suddenly because ... he had spent gasoline. "No, not again ... we have become to be drawn! !! "All we said to ourselves without dare not even look at us. But instead of anger we take it directly to laugh, like a setback over what looked like a reality show in which a writer with very bad grape constantly put us to the test.THE SCAM OF GASOLINE
We were standing on a road they did not go absolutely no where probably could have appeared an elephant or a pride of lions, for he had not forgotten that we were still in a natural area of the first order. The taxi driver-pileup not seem too concerned and told us that when his colleague wearing our four friends in the car, noticing that there llegaráramos would turn around to give a little of its gasoline. A little story credible and, above all, very little hopeful.
If by chance a car crossing, the man allegedly stopped them for help. Led by the local people, it was mostly did not even stop. But they did the organized or tourists who went there on his own. But most it had no diesel fuel and gasoline, so it was no use. The issue was that we had entered a course of 70 km with a tank in the lower levels of the reserve, so the driver himself was aware that we would not get to cover them with what I had. But I say that you could not see at all nervous and tried to reciprocate with a smile when he looked and gesticulábamos making him understand that we were not more than enough time precisely.
We were detained in the open about half an hour until an SUV driven by some Italians were interested in our situation and after explaining our indignation with what had happened took a bottle of gasoline and recharged the tank with an amount of insurance was valid for Directions to Victoria Falls or even more. It was a detail of fellowship between travelers always appreciate, because gasoline costs money and they shared without hesitation. A sure sign that travelers have us at each other when we are half lost and so far from our homes. If ever anyone needed help or advice to get out of a difficult situation, you should help him. That way everyone will travel with greater security. Grazie mille, amici!
So we could continue thanks to the Italians and the already hackneyed "gas scam" consisting of having the death of tourists to not let other people run who knows if someday they could be. The almost empty car and go takes steps based covering regargas by free people. Thus the passenger transport business that's profitable. Do not forget that the fuel in a country like Zimbabwe is almost a luxury, and there are many times when many service stations do not have it for weeks and even months, so every stratagem is little to survive even at the expense of tourists.
The smoke that thunders
There was a time when we grasp for the first time a distant image on the horizon indicating unequivocally that it was the Victoria Falls. And in an absolutely sunny day a wall that seemed made of smoke or cloud concentrated at one point stood. And he said at first that before Dr. Livingstone Falls baptize with the name of the Queen, the local people who already knew referred to as Mosi-oa-Tunya, which is to say something like "Smoke thundering "or" Smoke roaring ".And at that distance, which should be about 20 kilometers or more, it was quite understandable that name.
We reached the town of Victoria Falls, somewhat modern and ready to welcome tourists. We saw hotels, restaurants, shops, icons of a decorated semioccidentalizado that seemed to paint anything there. Say it is not credible to meet all those things when people on the street does not look precisely this bonanza. Victoria Falls has become one of the few pockets of the country that receives tourism, and therefore many of the people of Zimbabwe who have moved to live there him, which is not bad until you try to harm visitors small scams and thefts.
Next to a tree was precisely the person who had taken our friends, who should have been there a long time, and that was even remotely looked worried by the delay of the other occupants. That story that suited us to "save" bringing gasoline was not a milonga that nobody believed her.
Our car, which surprisingly had not fallen chunks along the way, left us at the gates of the National Park, next to the lockers where we waited and Chema, Pilar, Juan Ramon and Anita who were already puzzled that both tardáramos appear. We explained without further delay we did eight tickets for $ 20 each, with which to enter directly and enjoy the Victoria Falls.
WHERE IS COMING DOWN ZAMBEZE ...
The park in question has a network of trails in perfect condition to be traveled by all kinds of tourists, except for the steps that target small viewpoints that are quite stressful. What can no longer fight nobody is water vapor that permeates your clothes slowly but entirely. Without being the rainy season it was easy to get wet without having to look at the falls, so in other months have to wear a raincoat indisputable way if not wanting to be soaked during the entire walk.
We wanted to begin the path from left to right. This was because we wanted to see that last 
stretch of the Zambezi river just before leaving his languid course farewell loudly in a vacuum. That perennial roar of falling water to 80 or 100 meters high bounces off the ears of visitors, who are also involved in a cloud of steam and under the shadow of exultant similar to rainforests of Central vegetation. The Zambezi, fourth longest river in Africa after the Nile, Congo and Niger, has 2574 km passing through Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, resulting in the Indian Ocean. That was the route that David Livingstone wanted to make browsing until he realized there was a time when their purpose became mission impossible.
stretch of the Zambezi river just before leaving his languid course farewell loudly in a vacuum. That perennial roar of falling water to 80 or 100 meters high bounces off the ears of visitors, who are also involved in a cloud of steam and under the shadow of exultant similar to rainforests of Central vegetation. The Zambezi, fourth longest river in Africa after the Nile, Congo and Niger, has 2574 km passing through Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, resulting in the Indian Ocean. That was the route that David Livingstone wanted to make browsing until he realized there was a time when their purpose became mission impossible.
Because he never imagined he would have to save this unevenness dropping his large flow under a chasm whose dimensions explain to perfection to emerge as "sight to the angels of heaven themselves." We are talking about the jump Zambezi measures no less than 100 meters long and 1700 meters wide. They would be approximately 500 million liters of water removing every minute over a cliff that hard to see the end.
Visiting the main roads from left to right we were peering different viewpoints that were leaving us from where you can admire different angles the force of water off enough vapor to turn the area into an environment of rainforest very different to what is You can see in the Parks of Southern Africa. Depending on where you hit the sun were forming small rainbow that filled the shadow color.
The good thing about being on the side of Zimbabwe is that you can walk along the kilometer and seven hundred meters from Niagara watching the water curtain always in front, where the other neighboring country, Zambia. From there the views are not as lofty, but many people choose during the months of September to December to bathe in the most powerful and dangerous in the world Natural swimming pool, the famous Devil's Pool. During the dry season you can enjoy a swim at the edge of the falls from the water being able to show more than 100 meters, totally impossible for the rest of the year because the flow rate is much higher and floods the whole area. Internet is full of pictures and articles about it and there are many who want to go and found there that their expectations are dashed by going outside those dates. Chema and Juanra were most eager to try the pool Devil, but in the end, like everyone else, he had to settle for the contemplation of the force of nature from the Zimbauense side of the falls, which is something.
Approaching the huge cliff is not the most suitable for those who suffer vertigo. As in other natural phenomena height and Preikestolen (Stavanger, Norway), who had visited months earlier, he had times when it was best to lean it right lying or crouching to the fullest. One can not rely on its balance if a sudden gust of wind appears or if slip through the wet stones.
The amazing thing about the Victoria Falls is not the height by which the Zambezi but the thick curtain of water that seems unending collapses. The grandeur of the most famous waterfalls in Africa, whose only big rival in the world is Iguazu, has to do with the width of 1.7 km. accessed both from the ground and from the air, as there are many companies which organize helicopter flights (between 100 and 150 euros per person). Another way to complement the vision of this phenomenon belonging to the List of World Heritage Sites established by UNESCO.
Biodiversity in the area of the falls is visible, even in the busiest area for tourists is more tight birds and small mammals. Making our way back we saw several examples of warthogs (warthogs) walking on the brush. They were scavenging food in a quagmire that was just five meters from the path. So gross that can become these animals is best not to get too close to them that however nice it Pumba The Lion King, does not mean to be aggressive, especially if they are with their young.
Other animals with whom we met were monkeys, which formed a large group whose members either running around the floor of the road or jumping from one branch to another. The face was black surrounded by white hair sticking out ears. They had a beautiful honey-colored eyes and very expressive. And they were as restless as those with whom he had had the chance to frolic in a Temple of Jaipur (India) in the same year. They kept moving and I needed some time to photograph the faces so delicious and so full of life.
There was one who did not have much patience with that put me close to him and started yelling and feinting to jump on me, so definitely not delay my departure and left him quiet. That monkeys are playful when they are very nice, but if you piss can really hurt you. They are faster, stronger than you seem, and have sharp teeth and nails that will not hesitate to use if they feel disturbed. This as with all animals, just get close, very carefully and with great respect, you never know how they will react.
I WON THE DAY FIFTY BILLION DOLLARS
And when we were about to leave we ordered a soda to the person who had the keys of a small refrigerator where there were bottles of Coke, Fanta, Sprite and others. The price was one US dollar for every drink, so everyone called with what I had on hand (a five, ten or even twenty). But we hinted that a little more could get us give some other airline in the country, zimbauense dollar, which is strictly forbidden to fall into foreign hands. But, why all the secrecy with the local currency ?, why dependent knew that we could have some interest in getting tickets ?, Does Zimbabwe had something special ?. Indeed money Zimbabwe is a clear sign of why this country is so poor. Each ticket is an icon of the inflationary insanity that has brought ruin to millions of people making transactions back to the Stone Age, barter. You better explain data so you can see why travelers to the country we want to get hold of a copy of paper money.
During the last third of the twentieth century the price of Zimbauense dollar (ZWD) was quite acceptable. 1 US dollar equaled 1.50 ZWD. In 1990 he came to 2.60, standing out as a strong currency. But President Mugabe became more conspicuous economic delpilfarro without transparency and began an inflationary unlimited period that led to the total collapse of the financial system in Zimbabwe. So in 1996, 1 US dollar was exchanged for $ 400,000 of Zimbabwe. And continued corruption of the eternal dictator and make money now worth x, the next day will cost 10x. With what that might entail.
Already lost count of inflation. The latest data available for 2008 spoke of the currency had undergone a total of 230,000,000% inflation. Two hundred thirty inflation percentage million !! That same year the people and drove billion dollars, which actually could not buy even a loaf of bread miserable. Until the local money finally lost its value. People with bags full of money, billions and billions that were useless. Currently there are trillions, but obviously before all that people had returned to transactional methods for thousands of years, barter. Gradually are accepting many things in foreign currency (mostly US dollars) is paid, but the economic situation has collapsed, leading to famine over ten million people. Meanwhile, Mr Mugabe paid fortunes to bring weapons from the former Soviet orbit and above all to enjoy succulent banquets and champagne bottles 10,000 euros each.
I for a couple of US dollars made me fifty billion Zimbauenses, I hid me, because as I said before is not allowed to sell these tickets to foreigners. And all left the National Park Victoria Falls, with a few bills with countless zeros if they were from another country rivalizaríamos with Bill Gates himself. Who would have thought that I would ever get 50 billion?
A BRIDGE AS NO TRACE OF A DREAM ENDED
And with our tickets billionaires we went to another panoramic Zambezi River, which can be seen from atop enjoy a very eiffeliano bridge that separates Zimbabwe from Zambia. He rose in 1905 when he had posed a difficult but exciting project to unite Cairo Cape Town by rail. Just imagine that ficticeo way makes my hair stand on end. Have a ticket now to cross Africa from north to south. But it remained a mere dream and the way of it is this cross-border bridge between Zimbabwe and Zambia through which pass people, vehicles and even an ancient train reminiscent of the colonial era.
By walking back and forth women holding large boxes or bags over their heads, as they did in Spain when my grandmother was young. I've always wondered how they manage to have both balance. It is as if the head lose its curvature to have a straight point where whatever it takes hold. Probably it ends up being many years doing so. I think if I touched take some burden on the head I would take one second to finish on the floor.
Return goods and craft vendors mingle at the junction of the two former British Rhodesias (Zim Zam North and South). The bridge is a masterpiece of engineering that surpasses the Grand Canyon overlook that causes the Zambezi. The river views from there are really amazing and one has used this fact to start a business of bungee jumping and flying fox, although always above 60 € Prices do you think more than twice. Well, actually that and rely on a structure that failure will check the crocodiles.
Many travelers cross it to complement your visit to Victoria Falls. Officially visas to 24 hours costs $ 20 but I read experiences of others telling them they charged only $ 10. Certainly much of the group wanted to go to Zambia to swim in the pool Devil, but not in season (September to December) prevented even trying.
ZIMBABWE BYE BYE!
Our time in the area of Victoria Falls and the banks of the Zambezi was over. We had to go to the car to return to the border, because the four p.m. sailed our boat Chobe River in Botswana territory. I do not know how we managed but ended escacharrado them in the car that had run out of gas hours earlier. His undisputed broken moon and the smell did not prevent scrapyard during the hour 
the journey lasted gave occasional nod, which was interrupted with three stops had to make our drivers to police instructions of Zimbabwe, who were stationed at the roadside. In the three always the same thing happened. Drivers down, chatted a few minutes with the police and shook their hands, looking unabashedly as they passed a green little notes. Invented a small fee for what has become a business. Bites or bribes in Zimbabwe are the order of the day. That is not to say that tourism does not help the family finances of state security bodies. But hey, at least they did not take out our money to us. I welcome the contracted trip also included those services. I do not want to imagine what would happen if three different groups of police had made us stand on the roadside. Probably we would have paid various taxes each more ridiculous and false.
the journey lasted gave occasional nod, which was interrupted with three stops had to make our drivers to police instructions of Zimbabwe, who were stationed at the roadside. In the three always the same thing happened. Drivers down, chatted a few minutes with the police and shook their hands, looking unabashedly as they passed a green little notes. Invented a small fee for what has become a business. Bites or bribes in Zimbabwe are the order of the day. That is not to say that tourism does not help the family finances of state security bodies. But hey, at least they did not take out our money to us. I welcome the contracted trip also included those services. I do not want to imagine what would happen if three different groups of police had made us stand on the roadside. Probably we would have paid various taxes each more ridiculous and false.
Missing 20 minutes to take the boat still were checking our departure from Zimbabwe. Fortunately it was not too crowded because otherwise we would not have reached our "river date." The same in Botswana, which forms the entrance and we were starting to learn. We found it very curious as had stepped a kind of pool to "sanitize" our feet. We took the car and clean the campsite where we was waiting for the car that was going to carry on the banks of the Chobe where the boat was docked cruise. We only had time to catch the chopetina (chopped), bread and a bottle of water as we had not eaten. We would do on board, they plan on Sunday, not doubting our origin. Of course!Furrowing the Chobe River
We boarded the boat through a gateway, although a boat like a floating platform. He had chairs for at least twenty or thirty people, as it is quite sought after by travelers arriving to Kasane and do not want to miss the northern edge of the Chobe National Park whose border is the river that gives it its name. His wealth comes from the highlands of Angola, the same as fall rains tremendous flooding everything in its path almost to the gates of the Kalahari Desert. Needless to say, it is known for the myriad of wildlife that lives on it, and by providing support to the largest population of elephants can be seen in the world. The Chobe is not the Zambezi or the Okavango, but they form a magical trident capable of hosting high levels of biodiversity that attract top researchers from the animal world. '
There was not room for anyone else, so that when it was completely full, the captain of the boat started 
slightly to go away from civilization and allow we hire another interesting encounter with nature. The landscape of first and promised so my expectations for this trip about three hours were unbeatable. Too bad that did not involve the same to many of the occupants of the boat, they were more determined to throw a few drinks of beer and not stop talking to enjoy the tranquility, the movement of water or birds and other animals that were come. There was more than one occasion that I and Bernon had to ask for silence as we approached the banks because with so much noise it was really impossible that we could see nothing in conditions. Say ignored us and half times to me and made me want to throw more than one crocodiles ... that if any had. And we would not take long to find them.
slightly to go away from civilization and allow we hire another interesting encounter with nature. The landscape of first and promised so my expectations for this trip about three hours were unbeatable. Too bad that did not involve the same to many of the occupants of the boat, they were more determined to throw a few drinks of beer and not stop talking to enjoy the tranquility, the movement of water or birds and other animals that were come. There was more than one occasion that I and Bernon had to ask for silence as we approached the banks because with so much noise it was really impossible that we could see nothing in conditions. Say ignored us and half times to me and made me want to throw more than one crocodiles ... that if any had. And we would not take long to find them.
Admittedly, at first crossing it was marked by not happen anything. The scenery was beautiful 
and in such a gorgeous day as I was doing, but certainly expected a little more movement. Although it was a matter of waiting and not forgetting the premise that we learned on this trip, patience.And with her nature to us we were opening slowly, giving small gifts that precede larger ones. Thus we see how the cormorants diving fish practically for a few seconds to take the fish. This is achieved in some countries in Asia such as China and Japan, where the fishing is done with Cormorant, holding the necks of these birds with small ropes and managing them to gain lot of fish. Just a year earlier in Japan , in the Nagara River (Gifu) I witnessed this form of fishing practically extinct. But in Botswana, the Chobe was the first time I could see them act naturally, without cords that his own instinct, into the calm waters and then spreading its wings to dry in the sun.
and in such a gorgeous day as I was doing, but certainly expected a little more movement. Although it was a matter of waiting and not forgetting the premise that we learned on this trip, patience.And with her nature to us we were opening slowly, giving small gifts that precede larger ones. Thus we see how the cormorants diving fish practically for a few seconds to take the fish. This is achieved in some countries in Asia such as China and Japan, where the fishing is done with Cormorant, holding the necks of these birds with small ropes and managing them to gain lot of fish. Just a year earlier in Japan , in the Nagara River (Gifu) I witnessed this form of fishing practically extinct. But in Botswana, the Chobe was the first time I could see them act naturally, without cords that his own instinct, into the calm waters and then spreading its wings to dry in the sun.
There were more birds hoping to catch something, such as herons who remained hieratic to have shot his prey, the jacana walking light on the water lilies without their smallest or the weevil Kingfisher to move, you do not have fish that is resist. Many people who go to Africa on safari do not pay the slightest attention to the birds, but if they did they would realize the countless variety of species that inhabit the continent. It is said that only in the Chobe are more than four, so really deserve a little more attention. It does not ornithologist to enjoy them just contemplating.
AN EXPLOSION OF NATURE
It surpassed the first phase of the boat, started good when we begin to give an aquatic detour Sedudu Island, 3'5 plain square kilometers for which they have never come to terms Namibia and Botswana, countries that call themselves as their own . After endless disputes he had to decide the International Court of Justice in 1999 stating that its jurisdiction corresponds to Botswana, although the movement of vessels must be free to both countries. To Namibian called Kasikili Island and the people of Botswana is Sedudu. In any case the sovereignty of this island is not so important. Nobody lives there ... of human, clear species. Because to be a flat and flooded numerous visits has esplanade animals, especially elephants, who have come to meet there even hundreds.
At that time should have around five or six elephants splashing around in the mud, but not as close as we had wished it. Still we were circling the island close to the shore where the herons shared territory with crocodiles. Just one of them was lying on the grass sunbathing without moving the least eyelids. But his pose of total relaxation that did not exempt any time crawling out to crush with their sharp teeth to any prey. Crocodile bite far exceeds 1000 kilos per square centimeter. A huge power surpassed by other large as the Great White Shark. Animal ...
From other side we had and another in front and close enough to a group surpassing the dozen elephants. Us 
approach to be virtually silent and were stranded several minutes watching the weeds were brought to the mouth with their long trunks (apparently can lift up to 300 kilos with them !!). They were pretty quiet and did not seem undeterred we were there. We stand the silence after sending silence Panda Americans had turned the boat in a bar. Because if they had continued their vociferios, elephants would not have lasted even two segundos.Y there is that I liked the "quiet noise" of that river, absolutely not hear anyone but Nature in the form of wind, waves Heavy water or elephants walking by the mud. The fun of the tourists not married at all with that moment.
approach to be virtually silent and were stranded several minutes watching the weeds were brought to the mouth with their long trunks (apparently can lift up to 300 kilos with them !!). They were pretty quiet and did not seem undeterred we were there. We stand the silence after sending silence Panda Americans had turned the boat in a bar. Because if they had continued their vociferios, elephants would not have lasted even two segundos.Y there is that I liked the "quiet noise" of that river, absolutely not hear anyone but Nature in the form of wind, waves Heavy water or elephants walking by the mud. The fun of the tourists not married at all with that moment.
We met a girl from Hong Kong who had a huge camera and photographed next to a bear. It owned the classic blog or photoblog "presented" directly with inert pet. He is traveling alone and if not surprisingly took a hundred pictures of the elephants is that I have fallen short. It would not be the only time and the only place we we were going to find ....
Some we'd sit on the very edge of the boat, his feet almost touching the river water, which is why we called the attention more than one time. There was to be a crocodile poked its jaws and dragged us to the bottom. It would certainly have been a dramatic but fitting end of a novel. Posts to die, do it being original.
Some we'd sit on the very edge of the boat, his feet almost touching the river water, which is why we called the attention more than one time. There was to be a crocodile poked its jaws and dragged us to the bottom. It would certainly have been a dramatic but fitting end of a novel. Posts to die, do it being original.
It is often said in football games there goals or played so good that for themselves pay the entrance. Flawless execution and sublime technique that make the viewer get up and applaud wildly by a mere aesthetic enjoyment that disfuta who check mark, makes us forget the money you paid to see it. It's possible in many shows including theater, cinema or a concert Rock Star. On that cruise on the Chobe we were lucky enough to attend a magnificent, exciting and touching play that was enough to give good employees for the $ 25 it cost us the tour. It was when we timidly approaching a wetland saw the back of a crocodile camouflaged between the weeds and behind the dark backs of four hippos. In a beginning they stood motionless, oblivious to our presence just a few meters from them.
Not that anything unusual happened to be out of the norm. Not at all.Although really it was the only time he got all the passengers of the boat remained in silence for more than five minutes. And all it took is that the four big boys get up and began their strange way to swim or rather, walking under water, moving slowly and approaching the peak where we were.
I thought that first hippo we had seen in Maun would be the closest one would have on my life. But I was wrong because I could enjoy the movement of four to a truly ridiculous distance from them. It looked like a family with the male, female and two cubs. The dimensions of which had earmarks of being the father were really colossal. I had never seen or later would such a large hippopotamus with a head so huge. Indeed it was he who gave us a withering look at who were there watching them pass.
Just watching them poke his head, yawn disproportionately showing those teeth capable of halving a canoe and do within walking distance of where we were got definitely escape from all mishaps taken and have, many hours in the car and the eternal journey by plane to South Africa via Dubai. Anything is blatantly made small compared with that aquatic scene four hippos, they were just doing their ordinary life-mill.
And that was the most wonderful thing that had gotten excited by the mere passing of Nature. At last the television screen where he had seen hundreds of documentaries had become both my eyes and those of my friends who also felt that as his temporary paralysis where it seemed that we were only us and them, the tough yet tender hippos.
After barely a foot them they left very slowly, merging their corpachones in water to leave only half of the face exposed, allowing them to devote more glances. But this time, which was the smallest hippo, failed to convey the fury of his father, but on the contrary, the sweetness and innocence of an animal that seemed to have first seen these strange beings of human géreno to decompose and break, often unwittingly, balance keeping that nature takes millions of years. If more people had seen those eyes so tender, so lovely that scene probably would think more than twice before doing something harmful to the environment. Sometimes we hide our nests too concrete and we forget that in reality we are all part of the same chain do not stop to break.
The south end of the Island of Sedudu was also brimming with life and not really tipped cope with everything that was presenting us along the way. And it is that the slow decline in the daylight seemed to be far 
more suitable for animals appeared. Such as an elephant loner who never ceased in its efforts to spin the weeds with his trunk before mouthing. He had no other company of its kind though curiously not separated from him several herons, with probably keep this symbiosis that enable them to live in community taking advantage of each other. Seconds after seeing the elephant emerged with a vengeance at the top of a tree an imposing specimen Agila African fisherwoman, better known as African Fish Eagle (scientific name: African Fish Eagle ). This bird of prey that lives near rivers, lakes and other water bodies, has a wingspan of over two meters. It is able to engage in dams up to two kilos in weight, which are not based solely on fish but also turtles, baby crocodiles and even small mammals that may be within reach. Its distinctive features are summarized in the plumage brown and white head, which gives a very similar to the bald eagle, symbol of the United States look. The most noticeable physical difference is that the peak of the African Fish Eagle ends in black while its North American relative is completely yellow.
more suitable for animals appeared. Such as an elephant loner who never ceased in its efforts to spin the weeds with his trunk before mouthing. He had no other company of its kind though curiously not separated from him several herons, with probably keep this symbiosis that enable them to live in community taking advantage of each other. Seconds after seeing the elephant emerged with a vengeance at the top of a tree an imposing specimen Agila African fisherwoman, better known as African Fish Eagle (scientific name: African Fish Eagle ). This bird of prey that lives near rivers, lakes and other water bodies, has a wingspan of over two meters. It is able to engage in dams up to two kilos in weight, which are not based solely on fish but also turtles, baby crocodiles and even small mammals that may be within reach. Its distinctive features are summarized in the plumage brown and white head, which gives a very similar to the bald eagle, symbol of the United States look. The most noticeable physical difference is that the peak of the African Fish Eagle ends in black while its North American relative is completely yellow.
After a few dry bushes along we find two kudus, mother and daughter. The Parent awaited them above, standing on a small hill with trees that covered it. When he came down to meet them given the damn chance that I spent the camera battery. I looked for the spare to replace it and when I did and I looked and he was gone, leaving them alone again.
And a couple of meters of the antelopes were two baboons sitting placidly on the trunk of a fallen tree. Baboon, baboon or monkey also called Old World, is present in virtually all countries of the African continent. It has even been depicted in pictures and sculptures during the Egyptian Empire and as such testify numerous monuments. The female is perfectly distinguished not only be much smaller, but also for its features bulging buttocks protruding rear him. The male surpassed him in both body size in its pronounced snout.
At first they sat facing each other, as if they were chatting on a park bench. Suddenly the man turned his back and then she began to despiojarle. I did conscientiously, plunged his sharp fingers into his hair and pulled him every few seconds later a bug that would set down. He occasionally threw us one of those killer looks so classic baboons. And I say classic because this is probably the species with more bad blood that can be found in Africa. Just they have respect for the Big Five, because others are able echárseles you over without a second's hesitation. They are extremely strong and sharp teeth, sometimes with massacres carried crudísimas other animals, even to eat them if necessary, as they are omnivores.
A large fireball
It has always been said that the sunsets in Africa are unique, it is as if the sun were much larger and more powerful than elsewhere in the world. And certainly not a simple topic, it is a latent reality colored fire that engulfed the extraordinary landscape while going back. Fireball that turned the animals, branches and bushes in dark silhouettes, golden colored it the waters of the Chobe River and shined at the walls of heaven.
Since nobody wanted to miss the boat show similar colors. The cameras have returned back to work to freeze the usual Sun Dance, which was reluctant to definitely get lost in the horizon. And some of the couples who were there also took the opportunity to have a picture together at the river resplandenciente. Sometimes I get the impression that the sunset is an institution created by and for love in order to make every day a time that is theirs alone and that nobody and nothing can break.
And then let stay at sunset pink for six or seven minutes. To us and waiting for us to take us to Camping and put an end to a fantastic route. The first hour was a bit bland, however the following gave us beautiful images of those northerners boundaries of a country like Botswana that very little was left us to enjoy.
CENITA FOR TWO
Magnetized by the inertia of one of the most intense days we live during the trip, Rebecca and I wanted to give a small tribute that night. There was no body to chopetinas, spaghetti or to eat on the floor in aluminum plates. Not today ...
So we scratch our portfolios, we took the keys of the Land Rover and went to Chobe Safari Lodge where we had tried their luck with the accommodation on arrival to Kasane. When we were watching its facilities with colonial design course take note of his restaurant. We both knew that sooner or later we would go there for dinner.
They provided free buffet dinners for $ 20 per person. And they had a lot of variety, including exotic meals and game. I've never seen so many different meats. Tested, among others, Kudu in a delicious stew.
Anyway, I enjoyed a nice, romantic dinner for two, a couple of hours to ourselves, the first since that day stopover in Dusseldorf. It really was something that came very well. We needed. And on that starry night along a river in echoing the echoes of hippos, we intertwine our hands and surrender to the spell of our last moon of Botswana
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